Amsterdam is one of those cities that the whole world knows and the whole world should visit in their lifetime. But please make that visit at a time I’m not there. I don’t like crowds.
I might as well give our secret away for finding blindingly fab accommodation – TripAdvisor/Booking.com and specific criteria. We filter by city centre (walkability to sights), including breakfast (this really frees up your time for sightseeing), free wifi (you’re kidding yourself if you think you’re not going to brag about your holiday in FB – otherwise you would leave your phone at home…I literally DARE you!), luggage storage (depending on your flight times), 24 hour reception (again, depending on your flight times)…then sort by customer review, not hotel rating…average out the reviews, read them properly and see if the beefs people had are things you could deal with, given the other pressing considerations – if it’s a hot climate do you really need hot water 24/7? And, don’t pack any petty necessities – you’re on holiday in a different country – all the charm is in the difference from your cotton-wrapped home existence.
That said, we came up full-on trumps in Amsterdam. Our room – while small – was fully adequate and very clean, high-quality furnishings, comfortable bed and the perfect base we needed for a few days to explore. We worked out the train and tram system to make our way there easily from the airport and were able to walk everywhere else. Staff were very helpful, chatty and friendly, breakfast was more than expected and the dining room was lovely. The stairs up from the street were straight up…and seemed to go on forever…a trait of a country that has to go up, not down, otherwise you’d be underwater! As an added gold star for our TripAdvisor rating – the staff came and collected our bag when we arrived which was much appreciated…as were the sweets and welcome drinks! Hotel Clemens resident felines were the main reason I fell in love…once a cat person, always cat staff. They particularly enjoyed sitting on the printer…is that a cat scan?
Some of the sights seen during our time in A’dam, some really stand out. Anne Frank’s House is a must, I seriously don’t care who you are. As an illustration of what a strong human spirit can do when faced with an equally strong – though fearful and misguided – human spirit can do to innocent people, the museum is every bit worth the wait. No photos are allowed inside, and to be honest, how would you feel taking a selfie in a room where a family hid as long as possible, though still died in horrific circumstances? Having been to Auschwitz (see my post on Krakow, Poland), and seen several other war memorials, I still come away with the conviction – war solves NOTHING. We must have waited in line for over 2 hours – during winter, I might add – it doesn’t matter. At least we had 2 hours we could be outside, seen by the public, grab take-away coffees…and know that we weren’t hunted. Once inside and moving through the rooms, realising the enormity of the experience behind the book, it was very humbling. It puts some perspective into life today.
As an added bonus, if you’re standing in line for Anne-Frank’s House, you have to practically trip over the Homomonument – dedicated to those who have been persecuted for putting love before societal expectation. Quite fitting to have it nearby while you’re waiting in line to learn the story behind a persecuted family. While WW2 may be over, the world is still persecuting against those of us who do not conform to outdated ideas of what love “must only” mean. The pink granite stepped point down to the water held bouquets of flowers, dedicated to recent losses in the LGBT community. If only the bigots of the world could understand that the loss of bee populations around the world threatens their existence so very much more than the fact I love a woman, then monuments of this nature wouldn’t be so appreciated by so very many people.
During our trip we met up with Dutch native Jenny – a friend made while we were on tour in Central America. Few experiences are richer than seeing a destination through your own eyes with local first-hand knowledge and passion. We met up at the gorgeous train station, toured residential areas, enjoyed coffee and were introduced to stroop waffles (an initiation you’re unlikely to want to forget), visited the “i AMsterdam” monument near the beautiful Rijksmuseum, enjoyed the Light Festival together and of course a Heineken beer in an historic building. We really count ourselves very lucky to have an international community of friends.
The Museumplein area is an all-round photo opportunity. The surrounding area is open and scenic, great art sellers everywhere. Wander through the arches of the Rijksmuseum and go around twilight when we were there. As the lights come up and the shadows grow, it’s gorgeous, the atmosphere and conviviality help to make you feel like loving life just that little bit more.
On our own again, we trundled down the swanky shopping street without daring to enter any shopfront, to find the Vondelpark – a lovely space in a crowded city, a peaceful time out. Even at dusk, with not a lot of light we didn’t feel unsafe or the need to clutch our bags lest we were assaulted at knife-point. All over Amsterdam felt safe and friendly.
On our last day we spent some time people watching as a pirate and bag piper in full uniform shared cobblestone space in the large public Dam Square in front of the Royal Palace. It would be remiss of us to leave without indulging in a local delicacy – fried with Dutch mayo – pure decadent heaven! Since I was traveling with a prison officer, there was little chance we would venture into a “green bar” to sample its hash brownies so we were suitably aghast at the plethora of delights on show at the Sex Museum instead. It’s extensive so you have plenty of time to get over yourself and actually learn something new and appreciate the human need and necessity of intimacy and touch. By the time you reach the exit there is precious little left that will surprise you!
I can’ t wait to go back to Amsterdam. Her history, liberty, beauty, great beer, stroop waffles, cheese, friendliness, stoicism, bread (!), and did I mention friendliness all make for a great experience in Europe, open-mindedness and good beer brewing 😉
Please let me know if you plan to go to Amsterdam…I need you to say hello to Jenny…a true gem of a person in this world!