Just around the southern point of Puerto Madryn, after an easy 15-20mins boat ride lives a colony of sea lions. Raucous bulls, cows and pups lounge on the lower cliffs and share the space with numerous sea birds.
And I got in the water with them. Es muy fantastico!
Before I get to that though, on the trip out – where I was the only client (YES!) – we happened upon a southern right whale and her calf, right next to the boat. Captain Fernando – one of the handsomest men I’ve ever seen – cut the engines and we sat still watching them surface, feed, blow air and then pass right under the boat and surface on the other side. Now that’s a new sensation. When the boat is far smaller than the hundreds-of-tonnes-of-mammal that’s gliding very gracefully and fully visibly below, it certainly makes you hold your breath – just like you hope they’re doing so they don’t surface too soon!
That encounter completely topped the experience in Península Valdés, just for the intimacy alone, there’s not a lot else can make you feel so calm, grateful and humble. They truly are the most graceful and magnificent creatures.
We continued onto the Punta Loma sea lion colony to leave the whales in peace and joined the throng of inquisitive, fun and playful lobos in the frigid water. Even through a two-layer wetsuit, hood, booties and gloves it was quite a refreshing experience. The cold was secondary as soon as we paddled up to the boundary of the reserve to be met by several females who give you high-fives, enjoy a rub on the belly, hold your hand – with both flippers or lightly in their fully-toothed mouths and look at you square-on with the biggest, beautiful brown eyes that will ever melt your heart.
I will go back to the tour company to pick up the photos they took in a few minutes and as soon as I have the means I’ll upload some here. I hope Axel managed to capture the one that kissed my head. We stayed for about 45mins with the sea lions twirling, diving, leaping, corralling and always watching us. They would come right up behind and surface to exhale onto your head. They also checked out the divers and liked to try biting flippers and investigate the bubbles from their air tanks.
It was one of those experiences that make me feel like a kid again – I didn’t worry about anything else that may be going on, I took full delight in watching animals and I absolutely adored that they let us into their world to interact without the use of bait and with restricted access to keep them wild and free.
I leave Puerto Madryn tomorrow, bound for El Calafate. Now that I’ve had some time to sink in here, I’ll be sad to go and leave behind all the animal wonder that abounds around here. I’m so glad I added this part onto my itinerary – I’m alarmed to think I almost completely missed this opportunity to have one of the best days, and certainly three superb days, of brilliant sunshine and animal encounters that will stay with me for the rest of my days. Perfecto!!
Thanks for painting such an exciting picture of your travel so far. Great to hear you are having such a ball. Lots of love xoxox
What an awesome day Bec – thanks for sharing! I love the way you write – it’s puts me there beside you. Enjoy xxx
Thanks for sharing Bec. What amazing experiences you’re having. The animal adventures sound magical. Love ya x
Oh Bec what an amazing story! Loved reading it and look forward to seeing the photos xx