After the relaxed pace of my previous few weeks, cruising through the streets from airport to hotel in Mexico City was a challenge to take everything in. Despite a population hovering around 26 million, it actually didn’t feel crowded to me, the wide streets, footpaths, parks and urban sprawl seem to give breathing space. I wouldn’t say the same for the poor neighbourhoods that we saw on the bus ride out of town.
I took to my bed for the afternoon before the tour group meeting, being up since 4am and a touch of altitude didn’t agree with me. The evening we headed to El Popular for the Festival of Enchiladas for dinner which were delicious with a couple of Don Equis. On our way we walked through the Revolution/Independence monument. Now there is something that is worthy of monumental terms. Four massive corner towers hold a beautifully decorated dome aloft way up in the air. It signifies that an independent Mexico is here to stay. The Saturday evening was buzzing with all sorts of locals skateboarding, dancing all styles, lovers strolling and even a bagpiper and drummer. We continued onto the restaurant where the line was out the door and we were given hot sweet coffee while we waited.
Half the group headed back to the hotel after dinner and perhaps I should have gone with them, since when we stopped for a history lesson at the Guadalupe cathedral I fainted. A combination of dehydration and altitude knocked me off my feet. I came to straight away but it took a while to realise where I was. Ruth came with me in the taxi back to the hotel and I will always be grateful to her. Some water, a shower and bed were bliss that night.
A full day followed, starting with a stop at the Centennial Monument with a 6 metre tall gold angel on top, holding a laurel wreath in one hand for peace and a chain in the other denoting the end of Mexican slavery. Next we spent a few too short hours at the amazing Museum of Anthropology. Housing treasures from all the different cultures within Mexico we didn’t get around to all of it, it could take days to absorb it all. I did make sure I got to see the Mayan stone of the Sun, incorrectly called the Mayan Calendar by many – the end of the world isn’t coming, it’s all a myth! The stone is monstrous and very detailed. Nearby are several sacrificial altars, skulls, blades and carved stones detailing animals, gods etc. There was so much to take in I have trouble recalling even a day later, I must return to Mexico City to finish the job.
Next was across the avenue and through Chapultepec Park to the Castillo, a castle built on a hill with views across the city including my first view of the biggest flag in the world, and a former residence of viceroyalty stretching back through the centuries. The most impressive of all the amazing artworks for me was the ceiling above the staircase, depicting little hero Jose, one of the young boy caretakers who rather than surrender to invading armies wrapped himself in the Mexican flag and jumped to his death. The artwork is a modern style and full of awesome emotion.
Walking back through the park to meet our taxis we passed by the stalls selling everything you’d expect to find at sideshow alley including the Mexican wrestling masks, fake butts and fairy floss.
Onto lunch at a market stall, 35 pesos, or about $4 got us soup, rice, chicken and salad. I know the advice to steer away from the water but a day later and still ok so we got lucky.
As if a full lunch wasn’t enough, we stopped by a coffee shop loved by locals since 1937 for a hot mocha on our way to the house of Frida Khalo and Diego Rivera. The suburb is leafy and quaint, and apparently gets quite spooky around the day of the dead…strange things happen here but nobody wanted to talk about it. The house is full of relics of Frida and Diego’s lives and her ashes are on a dressing table in one of the bedrooms. Everywhere I looked was a bright palette of colours, brightening the overcast day. Several paintings adorn the walls, sculptures, paper mâché and wire skeletons dangle from ceilings and walls, rooms are fully furnished with gorgeous furniture from the early 1930’s and the tools, books, personal items, quotes and information abound. Some things I particularly remember include the mirror on the bed canopy, the box framed butterflies ‘on another bed canopy, the shiny stones set high up on the kitchen walls spelling out their names, the beautiful gardens with water features and the display of Frida’s dresses and leg and torso braces she would decorate and incorporate into her outfits. And of course there are numerous references to Leon Trosky’s time in the house and candid snaps of family and friends.
Mexico City has so many stories yet to tell me and I know I will need at least another week to get through even half of them. So I’ll have to come back..who’s coming with me?
