Sierra Negra volcano at the bottom right side of Isla Isabella is the second largest crater in the world, the caldera is 9x11km. We set off for an 18km hike around the right hand side taking in views over the immense expanse of the caldera. I felt quite incapable of comprehending the scale of the area, context was too hard without a landmark of relatable proportions.
Along the hike we passed scoria fields, lots of birdlife including the Galapagos mockingbird, walked through the clouds and spotted a giant caterpillar that crawled onto my shoe and when I moved him, his head reared up, took on a menacing shape to look like a big head and the eye on his tail actually blinked at us. The butterfly he must turn into would have to be enormous!
Also visible from the top was the isthmus of the island, showing the ocean on both sides across the narrowest strip of land. The air was clear enough that we could make out the other volcanos running up the island and crossing over the equator.
After a lunch break we headed for the lava field with the remains of flows from different times, a few hundred years ago and one from the 1970’s. The lava has oxidized more for the older it is and so the older field is terracotta in shade while the recent eruption is still rather black, charcoal, grey in colour. More cacti, ferns, small bushes are growing in the older field, but it’s slow going. Conditions are harsh but somehow, nature takes over eventually.
The sheer size of the field is testament to the size of the caldera and how large the underlying magma chamber must be. Lava tubes and tunnels snake across the landscape, collapsed in some areas and housing mini ecosystems of small plants sheltered from the wind and capturing water to grow.
Fumeroles with sulphur crystals and a rainbow of minerals around the entrances showed up as we climbed up to a summit of rock and scree to take in the vista across the bottom of the field down to the ocean. Mini volcanos showed up all over the lower lands, cones poking up above the greenery. Even though it was raining we took some time to process the natural wonder before us and watch some mockingbirds mill around us, oblivious to human intrusion.
The walk back was along the same path, we found more giant caterpillars and managed to not hurt ourselves on the ah-ah lava – fast cooling lava that becomes sharp edged. Ah-ah is a Hawaiian term because that’s what you say if you try walking on it barefoot. I’m serious.
Free time in the afternoon before agreeing to meet up at the Pink House – Casa Rosada – for happy hour before dinner. The sunset behind the clouds cast a glow over us and the drinks and make shift yoga demo by a few of us by the crashing waves. The group was awesome to travel with and I know we will have long term friends. Dinner at El Faro was delicious and they make an amazing sangria. Shawn showed off his latest Spanish vocabulary improvements while several people enjoyed the Explosion del Pacifico…a large concoction of seafood and rice. I believe I stuck with chicken 😉
