Popping into Argentina’s wine region for a few days was made possible by last minute flights with LAN since all border crossings were snowed in. A bumpy skip over the Andes and we were amongst flat fields of grape vines, around 800-1000 wineries and autumnal tree-lined streets in Mendoza.
We took a walk around town to the large plaza – which also serves as an evacuation point for earthquakes and then the obligatory wait until way past usual bedtimes before meeting to go for dinner at 9.30pm. I had repressed that memory of the G Adventures trip and our standard 4am bedtime due to a late dinner. Either way, we went to Ocho Cepas (eight vines) to sample local malbec and other red varietal wines, steaks and ribs. Well, the others did. I did it wrong and ordered a chicken salad and white wine. This is what happens when you start dinner so late, I thought we must have been back around to lunch time, surely?
Katie, Frankie and I took a decent half hour walk to the Parque San Martin with a picnic to share in the sunshine. A huge park with numerous facilities we took advantage of green grass in the sun to enjoy some nibbles and chat. When the bus to town paused at the stop where we waited and then left us hanging, we walked home after some under-breath cursing of Argentinian bus drivers.
We needn’t have hurried, thinking as we did that Katie needed to be back by early afternoon – the anticipated wine tour had been miss-booked so all missed out on that one. Everyone joined the following afternoon instead.
During the morning, Gina and I sampled some of the breakfast and lunch options along pedestrian mall, Sarmiento, where Gina fed a toasted ham and cheese sandwich to a stray dog with the saddest puppy-dog eyes. Never mind that they are EVERYWHERE, each dog has the innate skill to tug at your heart and make you want to take them home. Whatever would the cat say?
The wine tour took us to Maipu, the wine region to the north, via the technologic Vistandes vineyard, the artesanal Viña del Cerno, Pasrai Olive Oil factory and finally an artesanal collective full of five kinds of dulce de leche, tapenades, fruit jellies, olive oils, balsamic glaze, sweet treats PLUS hand made chocolates PLUS several liqueurs including 75% absinthe. We took tours through the processing areas of the wine and olive oil factories, preferred the artesanal over the technologic vineyard and marveled at the old fashioned methods of extracting olive oil that actually make it look like axle grease. Yum.
The artesanal collective guide was a good laugh and expert at preparing our absinthe shots. I didn’t see any green fairies so I think I’ll need a few more shots next time. I’m still kicking myself for not getting any coconut dulce de leche though!
The evening passed in a blur of wine drunk in hotel rooms, dinner somewhere in Villanueva – far off from our hotel and a very drunk Andy espousing the intricacies of traveling in India.
Overall, Mendoza is a lovely town, feeding from wine tourism and exportation, very similar in atmosphere to Stanthorpe and I sure, most other hubs for vineyards. Is it worth an extra $500 to make a special trip on top of the pre-paid tour cost…hmmm…well the discovery of Torrontes was definitely a winner for me, my new favourite white wine.
